DIOR’S AFFAIR WITH INDIA

Christian Dior, the iconic French fashion house, has a long-standing connection with India that dates back to its inception. The brand’s founder, Christian Dior, featured an Indian-inspired ensemble in his debut collection in 1947, demonstrating his admiration for the country’s rich culture and intricate craftsmanship.

The bond between Dior and India continued to flourish under the creative direction of Marc Bohan, who helmed the brand from the 1960s to the 1980s. Bohan further strengthened this connection by presenting Dior collections in the cities of Mumbai and New Delhi during the early 1960s.

Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s creative director, has long admired and drawn inspiration from India’s rich textile heritage, particularly the country’s mastery of embroidery and embellishment. For the brand’s Pre-Fall 2023 show, Chiuri chose to stage the event in Mumbai, marking the first time a major fashion label outside of India has showcased a collection in the country.

Dior’s current artistic director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, paid homage to India’s heritage and skilled artisans in the brand’s Pre-Fall 2023 show, held at Mumbai’s historic Gateway of India. The collection showcased 99 styles inspired by traditional Indian design, blending Dior’s signature silhouettes with intricate embroidery and vibrant colors. Many of the pieces were created in collaboration with the artisans at Chanakya Ateliers, under the guidance of Karishma Swali. This partnership allowed for a thoughtful and intricate selection of color palettes, motifs, mirror work, sequins, and crafts that truly honored the rich textile heritage of India.

The decision to hold the show in Mumbai was driven by Chiuri’s desire to celebrate and showcase the incredible knowledge and craftsmanship that India offers to the international world of fashion. The event was held in front of the Gateway of India, a historic architectural icon that served as the perfect backdrop for Dior’s global vision.

This long-standing relationship between Dior and India is a testament to the fashion house’s appreciation for the country’s rich cultural legacy and its continued influence on the world of haute couture.

“I think our trip today is different,” Chiuri says. The goal is to “celebrate the cultural aspect and also the [design] heritage that they have,” she says. “Now, when we are speaking a lot about cultural appropriation, I think it is very important to show how these elements connect all the different countries and how much we have in common.”

“I personally wanted to celebrate and showcase the incredible knowledge India offers to the international world of fashion in the field of embroidery, the mastery of the artisans who continue to work on this craft, and the commitment of Chanakya’s founders to preserving India’s history and culture, portrayed by each embroidery technique,” said Grazia Chiuri.

At the Dior 2023 show in Mumbai, the historic Gateway of India was adorned with a breathtaking, large-scale installation created through a collaboration between artisans from the Chanakya Atelier and the Chanakya School of Crafts. This monumental piece, which required 35,000 hours of painstaking handwork and the application of 25 distinct craft techniques, served as a stunning backdrop for the fashion event.

The Toran, a traditional Indian decorative doorway hanging, was handcrafted over 35,000 hours and utilized 25 distinct craft techniques, such as phulkari, mirror work, French knotting, and kantha. This collaborative effort not only showcased the immense talent and dedication of the artisans involved but also highlighted the importance of preserving traditional Indian craftsmanship in contemporary fashion.

The collaboration between Dior’s artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri and Karishma Swali, director of the Chanakya Atelier and the Chanakya School of Crafts, highlighted the importance of textile and embroidery as driving forces in the fashion industry.

The Pre-Fall 2023 collection showcased a beautiful fusion of Indian craftsmanship and Dior’s iconic designs, emphasizing the potential for cross-cultural collaborations to create innovative and visually captivating fashion experiences.

“Craft is an infinite, interdisciplinary medium that is breaking so many boundaries in the most exciting of ways. The preciousness of handwork can become an important part of a student’s design language, even if they’re not looking to become an expert,” explains Swali.

The Dior Pre-Fall 2023 show in Mumbai was a remarkable celebration of Indian craftsmanship and the country’s rich cultural heritage. Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s decision to showcase the collection at the historic Gateway of India highlighted her admiration for India’s sartorial artistry and the mastery of its artisans.

The collection featured traditional Indian silhouettes, vibrant colors, and exquisite embroidery, paying homage to the influence of Indian craftsmanship on international fashion. Chiuri’s collaboration with Karishma Swali, director of the Chanakya Atelier and the Chanakya School of Crafts, showcased the power of textiles and embroidery in driving fashion innovation.

The Dior Pre-Fall 2023 fashion show in Mumbai brought together a star-studded front row, with a mix of Bollywood celebrities, international stars, and notable personalities closely associated with the brand. The attendees included acclaimed French actress Camille Cottin, French fashion influencer Mathilde Warnier, British model and actress Cara Delevingne, Italian-born journalist and socialite Beatrice Borromeo Casiraghi, and French model Lætitia Casta, Deva Cassel, Karlie Kloss, whose stunning white lace dress became a highlight of the event.

The gathering of these influential figures from different backgrounds and nationalities underscored the global appeal and reach of Dior, as well as the brand’s commitment to fostering cross-cultural connections through fashion. The front row attendees added an extra layer of glamour and excitement to the show, which celebrated the timeless elegance and craftsmanship of haute couture while honoring India’s rich textile heritage.

At the Dior Pre-Fall 2023 fashion show in Mumbai, French supermodel and actress Lætitia Casta graced the event in a captivating white lace dress. The elegant ensemble featured delicate lace detailing, a shoulder-revealing design, and a form-fitting silhouette that accentuated her figure. Casta completed her look with a Dior belt and matching white shoes, embodying the perfect balance of sophistication and glamour.

Lætitia Casta, the 44-year-old French supermodel and actress, graced the Dior Pre-Fall 2023 fashion show in Mumbai with her presence, donning a mesmerizing floor-length white lace dress. The intricate design featured a bardot collar, revealing her shoulders and adding a touch of elegance to the ensemble. A thick black leather belt with a silver clasp cinched at the waist, accentuating her figure and adding a modern edge to the otherwise delicate dress.

Overall, Casta’s impeccable styling choices showcased her innate ability to elevate an outfit, seamlessly blending sophistication and allure while paying tribute to Dior’s haute couture craftsmanship.The choice of a white lace dress not only reflected Casta’s personal style but also paid homage to the exquisite craftsmanship and attention to detail that defines haute couture. As the show celebrated the fusion of cultures and the importance of artisanal skills, her ensemble stood as a testament to the enduring allure of timeless fashion.

The collaboration between Dior and the Chanakya School of Craft for the Pre-Fall 2023 show in Mumbai was a testament to the enduring dialogue between the French luxury house and India’s rich artisanal heritage. The event served as a platform to celebrate the exceptional craftsmanship of the women artisans at Chanakya, who have been trained in couture-level embroidery and craftsmanship.

Established in 2016 by Karishma Swali and Monica Shah, the Chanakya School of Craft aims to empower women from low-income communities by providing them with high-quality education in hand embroidery and craftsmanship. The non-profit institution is dedicated to preserving and promoting India’s craft and cultural heritage while creating new opportunities for women in the traditionally male-dominated field.

Dior’s partnership with Chanakya for the Pre-Fall 2023 show highlights the brand’s commitment to supporting craftspeople and promoting ethical practices within the fashion industry. This collaboration not only showcased the immense talent and dedication of the artisans at Chanakya but also underscored the importance of preserving and celebrating traditional crafts in the world of high fashion.

Indian actress Sonam Kapoor, “The fact that Dior decided to present their show here is phenomenal,” she said, after taking in the beautiful collection from the front row. “It was overwhelming. I had tears in my eyes because of the music, and seeing so many Indian models wearing clothes that were inspired by India.”

“There are so many varieties of craft and embroideries in Indian culture, which have been incorporated into the artwork. They have taken inspiration from the Indian villages and celebrated that.”

Through this unique event, Dior not only celebrated India’s cultural legacy but also started a new discussion on the intersection of fashion, craftsmanship, and cultural heritage. The show served as a powerful testament to the enduring beauty and richness of Indian design, while also underlining the importance of preserving and promoting traditional craftmanship.